Hometown Charmer North Baltimore’s Hampden has seen a remarkable explosion of commercial and cultural development in the past decade or so, but the neighborhood has managed to maintain its small town feel. Its residents use the word “hon” freely, frequently, and without irony, and its small shops, restaurants and festivals are a celebration of all things funky and eclectic. The neighborhood, bordered by 41st Street to the north, Clipper Mill to the south, the Jones Falls River to the west and Wyman Park to the east, got its start in 1802 as a cluster of houses built for workers at the new flour and cotton mills along the Jones Falls Stream Valley. Named for John Hampden, a major figure in the English Civil Wars of the 17th century, the neighborhood became part of Baltimore City in 1888. By the 1890s, Hampden’s mills were the area’s top manufacturers of cotton duck, the canvas used for tents, sailcloth and mailbags. But by the mid-19th century, demand for these products began to wane, and the mills slowly died. In recent years, however, the mills buildings have sprung back to life, helping to define the neighborhood’s character. Today, the old mill buildings house art studios, health clubs, high tech companies and residential communities. The neighborhood’s revitalization is obvious when one visits 36th Street, better known as “The Avenue.” The stretch boasts more than 100 boutiques, galleries and restaurants—not a single chain store in the bunch, save for the Royal Farm mini-mart on the corner of 36th Street and Falls Road. Instead, most of Hampden’s mainstay shops focus on discount, retro and consignment stores like Fat Elvis, an antique and collectibles store, and Hometown Girl, a source for items uniquely Baltimore—or just plain weird. Hampden’s food options are equally off-kilter, from the unconventional pan-Asian fare at Suzie’s Soba to the free-range chicken at Golden West Café. And no trip to Hampden would be complete without a quick bite at the famous (or is it infamous?) Café Hon. The neighborhood’s cultural scene is all about representing the locals, like the extensive display of “Hampdenite” Randall A’s metallic art – made from parts of old bicycles and other “junk” – on the brick wall above Café Hon. Randall A also showcases his work during Hampden’s annual “Miracle on 34th Street,” when the residents of the streets 700 block deck their halls (and the rest of their houses) with the finest arrangements of bright lights south of Atlantic City. Hampden does also has a few dedicated art galleries, like Mud and Metal, which features sculptures with particular emphasis on insect, animals and flowers. The neighborhood takes pride in its hospitality. On the first Friday of every month, visitors can enjoy special shop discounts, extended hours, and live music. Special events include the annual “Hon Festival” each summer, which features a contest to find the most distinctive Bawlmer accent, and the Potter’s Guild Holiday Show, which offers early holiday shopping each November. |
